It is seemingly obligatory these days for any new restaurant to proudly tout local sourcing and sustainability — whether totally true or not. The word organic is planted on menus like corn in Nebraska. So when Sustain Restaurant + Bar opened this past December with a mission “to support farmers” and “provide customers with the purest and finest local ingredients,” you couldn’t blame folks if they were a bit skeptical. Yet one bite into Sustain’s 50-mile salad and any thoughts of gimmickry evaporate like morning dew. (by Lee Klein, Miami New Times)
The bright medley is made of wood-roasted beets, pickled red onions, caramelized carrots, mixed baby brassica greens from Paradise Farms, and soft crumbles of fromage blanc from Hani’s — all sourced within the namesake distance. It seems midtown Miami residents have yet another fine restaurant in the neighborhood.
It looks good, too. Long, curved wooden sticks (dubbed a “mangrove installation”) that line one of the main walls resemble a museum display of ossified dinosaur ribs; they blend in with other Whole Earth elements such as blond wood tables made from reclaimed cypress. Contrasting the natural trappings are steely urban features such as a poured concrete floor and an industrial ceiling masked by large mesh pods of recycled aluminum (small globes that cover hanging LED light fixtures are of matching material). A full bar lines the left side of the room, and an open stainless steel kitchen in back exudes smoke and enticing aromas. Owners have minded details large and small: Music is appropriate (not too loud in style or volume), the thermostat is set in sane fashion, and guests are attended to in a welcoming and competent manner at the front door. (read full story | see slideshow)
